Hf 4x8 Folding Trailer

Discussion in 'Cargo, Trailers, & Towing' started by PoorJohnn, Jun 16, 2019.

  1. PoorJohnn

    PoorJohnn Member

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    Just bought one and have completed about 90% of the final project. I used it once noe to go to the local Lowes for plywood and 2x4s bounced a bit till I loaded but tracked very good and I am pleased. I made some errors in putting the plywood down so quick as it is I cant unbolt it to fold up and that was a main reason for getting the folding model so I will go back and rework a bit.
    any suggestions on how to make it easy to bolt and unbolt quickly ans I do need to fold to store.
    I need once it is folded to pull it across a carpeted floor to get to where I plan to store it but am concerned that the small casters might prove to be a problem. HF has a great selection of casters and bigger is better (right?) Any thoughts on what pitfalls I might encounter.
     
  2. rbstern

    rbstern Administrator Staff Member

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    Howdy and welcome. Only thing I can think of is checking the clearance of the existing casters from the side, to make sure the wider hardware of a bigger caster won't interfere with the folding.

    Bigger casters seem like a good idea if you're going to roll it on a softer surface like a carpet.
     
  3. Bassman37

    Bassman37 New Member

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    Hi there,

    What thickness of plywood did you use and did it interfere with the foldability?

    Thanks.
     
  4. PoorJohnn

    PoorJohnn Member

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    I used 5/8 and had no problem but could have just as easily used the 3/4 and it would have been fine. I watched several Youtube videos to see what kind of issues came up and several said 3/4 was too thick but I am guessing they did something different with the bolting
     
  5. PoorJohnn

    PoorJohnn Member

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    Your right looking closer it appears there wont be enough clearance for larger size so I guess I can lay down a plywood in the path accross the carpet to make it a little easier
     
  6. Rob95656

    Rob95656 New Member

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    I’m not following how the casters would affect folding...they are on the “legs” and the legs don’t have anything to do with folding.

    I used 3/4” ply and I routered the edges to accommodate the difference between the supports that run front-to-back vs. side-to-side. I didn’t need to remove the ply quickly, but I did need a flush surface...my fix may also work for those who want to quickly remove the ply. I used “t nuts” on the ply. If you haven’t heard of them, they are nuts with a flange on one end...the flange has 4 cuts and the metal bent back into 4 “barbs” that can bite into the wood. You drill the same size as the od of the t nut, hammer them in to the wood from the “back side” of the wood (opposite side of where the bolt head will be).

    So the t nuts are visible from the top of the trailer deck (but hammered in so they still sit flush). The bolts are run in from the underside of the trailer (the t nuts are mounted into the wood so you can access everything from one side with a ratchet).

    I also upgraded the casters to 3” versions with locking brakes. STRONGLY suggest locking casters...as they are taller they want to roll much more when standing the trailer up as you fold it...making it want to walk away from you. Lockers prevent/limit walking as you fold.
     
  7. PoorJohnn

    PoorJohnn Member

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    Hmmm. My only issue is with rolling on a softer surface. I thought about larger caster like 3-4 inch but was afraid there would not be enough clearance to accommodate the larger casters.
    I have it loaded now so was not able to take a picture in the folded state but did take a picture of caster and stand.

    Would you post a picture of your installed caster.
     

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  8. Rob95656

    Rob95656 New Member

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    I upgraded to a 3” caster (110lbs per, found them at Lowe’s) and with a tiny mod they fit. The ones I found had a very “thin” mount nut cast in to the threaded post used to mount it, as well as an octagon cut into the flange. I didn’t have a wrench big enough fit the flange, and my open ended wrenches were too “thick” to be able to fit in between the caster and trailer leg to tighten the nut on to the caster. My solution was to take the existing nylock nut and flip it over and drive it entirely down the post, basically making it a jam nut and giving me something that a wrench would fit on. I then mounted as usually and added a new nylock nut. So picture the standard way the caster mounts, but with an extra nut at the base of the caster between the trailer leg and the base of the caster. This made the clearance between the wheel of the caster and the foot of the trailer just barely clear and not hang up as the caster rotates. I’ll take a pic here when it gets a little more light.
     
  9. PoorJohnn

    PoorJohnn Member

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    Thanks Rob95656 I will look forward to it. I am thinking I might be able to make a small modification to the leg stand to allow more wheel clearance as indicated by yellow in picture
     

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